Life often presents us with choices that test our resolve, faith, and priorities. Attending the Prana Pratishtha of the Ram Lalla in Ayodhya had always been a dream, a spiritual milestone I yearned to witness. It was more of a personal journey for me than anything else – rising against all odds in life and witnessing a momentous event of a civilization. As the date approached, the path to fulfilling that dream became fraught with challenges, the most difficult of which was my grandfather’s critical health.
For as long as I can remember, my grandfather Dr J Sanath Kumar has been my guardian angel, my guide, my storyteller, and man who taught me life. Through him, I did not learn any spiritual stories or tales from Ramayana but his life was a living tale of how one’s conduct should be, what ethics are, that you should always do the right and stay on the righteous path. So as my life progressed and I learnt about Ramayana, I realised Lord Rama was not just a deity, but is a symbol of courage, sacrifice, and unwavering dharma.
Ever since the Supreme Court of India pronounced the verdict on 9th November 2019 directing the government of India to create a trust to build the Ram Mandir temple and form a Board of Trustees and hearing the former Regional Director of the Archaeological Survey of India Shri KK Muhammed in November 2019 on the archaeological evidence of presence of a temple in the site, we were more than eager to witness the day the temple would be built.
The wait for a temple was almost 5 centuries. Most civilizations in present world are only that old - comes to tell the antiquity of Bharathiya civilization.
On 5 August 2020 the groundbreaking ceremony in Ayodhya was performed by honourable Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi. It was a moment we all watched at home. Though my grandfather did not speak anything his eyes were lit up with devotion.
I consider it a great fortune to meet people with great legacy and importantly who value legacy. In today’s world everything is levelled, except legacy. Legacy is the enduring imprint we leave behind, a reflection of who we are and what we value. It transcends material possessions, encompassing the ideas, values, and memories that shape the lives of others long after we are gone. Legacy is not just about being remembered; its about making a meaningful contribution to the world.
The other person who had profound impact in my life on Lord Rama is Shri Sundar Ramachandran. Sundar Ji’s great grandfather Rao Bahadur Pudukottai Swaminatha Krishnaswami (well known as PSK) had translated the entire Valmiki Ramayana in 1928 – 1932 and published it as the Dharmalaya edition (his residence named after his wife Dharmambal, which till date is being well maintained by Sundar Ji). The special edition was published through the good offices of Shri MN Ramasamy Iyer – a banker from Palakkad.
Every time I would meet Sundar Ji during his monthly visit to Coimbatore he would narrate the epic, his voice would quiver with emotion, and the devotion to Lord Rama would be obvious. This had a profound impact on me and the virtues of Lord Rama have been ingrained in me deeper than ever before. What makes connections in life so remarkable is their ability to transcend the mundane and touch something deeper within us. Through Sundar Ji I was fortunate to imbibe the legacy left behind by Shri PS Krishnaswami Iyer, appreciation for Lord Rama at Vaduvur and the struggles endured in upholding Dharma at Ayodhya.
When news broke about the inauguration of the Grand Ram Temple, it felt like a culmination of those countless evenings spent listening to the greatness of Lord Rama. Sundar Ji, Saravanan Ji, and myself resolved to attend the Pran Pratishtha on 22nd January 2024 at Ayodhya and made our flight bookings to Delhi on the 20th January. However, fate had other plans.
Just a week before the event, my grandfather’s health deteriorated rapidly. Watching him struggle was heartbreaking. We were worried. Amidst this uncertainty, my plans to attend the inauguration seemed selfish and distant. My Wife Niveditha reassured me to proceed and that she would take care of the home front.
I grappled with guilt. How could I think of leaving when he needed me the most? Yet, deep inside, I also knew what the temple meant to him. When I finally mustered the courage to bring it up, I was stunned by his response. Weak but determined, he held my hand and said, “Go. Witness it for both of us. Take my prayers with you. I may not be able to go, but my blessings will walk with you.”
Those words broke me and fortified me in equal measure. My journey to Ayodhya was not just physical; it became a pilgrimage of love, duty, and faith. Every step I took was heavy with emotion, but also lightened by his unwavering support.
On 20th of January 10.30 AM with reassurances from my wife and grandfather to proceed on my Pilgrimage, I realised my camera bag had not been packed, and there was hardly any space in the suitcase so I had to take another backpack for the camera. I reached out to my regular backpack which I normally take for my trips to Tiruchendur.
Taking the camera, I opened the zip with myriad thoughts running through my head on successful completion of the trip. Just when I opened the zip, I was taken aback by a booklet with a cover image of Hunuman Ji carrying the Sanjeevi hills. I was moved beyond words by the gesture of lord Hanuman who was already in the bag waiting to carry us all to Ayodhya. The booklet was a supplement received along with the Dinathanthi newspaper that was given to me at the hotel I last stayed in Thiruchendur. I realized that I had unpacked the bag in August 2023 and left the supplement inside the bag itself.
That we had to go to Ayodhya; that there would be lot of obstacles enroute, both logistically as well as home front; that I had no idea of carrying this particular bag; and that I would travel after receiving reassurances from wife and grandfather, deciding to take this bag to pack my camera, you find lord Hanuman in a mountain carrying posture – call it coincidence or sheer randomness, all of it to happen on a trip to Ayodhya is nothing but divine presence reassuring “I will take you”. These are the moments in life where God demonstrates his presence by making things happen. I was more than reassured and there was no looking back.
The road was not easy. Coordinating travel thanks to fog delays and flight rescheduling, managing my emotions, and ensuring I could stay connected to updates about his health was exhausting. But every challenge reminded me of Lord Rama’s own trials and the lessons of perseverance and belief in divine timing.
We had to proceed to Varanasi first as a break journey since Ayodhya city was open on invitation-only basis and would be open for all from the 24th. Shri Ramdas Iyer, from New Delhi, ensured we had a comfortable stay in the heart of New Delhi on the first night of our travel – a truly big-hearted gesture that all of us will never forget, given the biting cold of Delhi winters.
Morning, we took the Vande Bharat to Varanasi, from the Ajmeri Gate at NDLS. Owing to Fog, the train chugged along and we reached Varanasi around 6.30 PM. My wife’s maternal uncle, Shri Karthik had arranged our stay at the iconic Nagarathar Chatram at Godowlia which was a luxury given the rush and the location, located right at the point where one starts to walk either to the Das Ashwamedh Ghat or to the Supremely clean Kashi Corridor leading to the Kashi Vishwanath Shrine. We put our bags and started walking towards the Kashi Vishwanath Temple.
Enroute Saravanan and myself succumbed to the temptation of hot Kachoris fried in desi ghee; it was something else. Devout, Sundar Ji maintained his resolve to see Kashi Vishwanath and then have dinner. Sundar ji had already been to Kashi a few times and most recently before the renovation of the grand corridor. He recollected how the place used to be and the beautiful transformation it has undergone under the visionary leadership of Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi.
Kashi is an emotion. It is a place where you meet time. It’s a place where you reflect, not just about our own self but on the greatness of this land, about how many rulers have walked the path did the same rituals, lived through times. It is just staggering to think of. We had the good fortune of touching the Shivalinga at the existing Kashi Vishwanath Shrine, then saw the devout Nandi, in his eternal wait for his master to return. As we moved to the ghats, Ganga ji was all tranquil and placid, post the evening Ganga arti. We spent time reflecting on the calm flowing of the Ganga ji.
Boats were getting ready for the celebration of the Pran Pratishtha the next day, with flags and flowers were being tied in preparation for the Pran Pratishtha of Ram Lalla. The winter chill ensured that the sinful kachori’s got digested in quick time and we were hungry. We had for dinner, piping hot kichadi, which felt bliss. On our way back to our room at Godowlia, we saw an air of anticipation, well-guarded but in celebratory mood.
Next day, on 22nd, we were fortunate to witness the abhishek at Kashi Vishwanath Shrine in close quarters, just at the time when Pran Pratishtha was done, which was also simultaneously telecast across Kashi. Amongst hundreds of Angavastras that were offered to Lord Vishwanath by devotees, I felt blessed that mine adorned the Shiva Lingam that day.
Then moved to Annapoorna ma, followed by Kashi Vishalakshmi ma, sought their blessings and moved to Godowlia where Kashi was erupting in jubilation in front of the giant screen which was screening the proceedings of the Pran Pratishtha. Something which my words cannot bring to life. Over the next two days, we managed to visit all the iconic ancient temples in Kashi, and indulged in some brilliant Kashi chaat.
On 24th January, we took our train to Ayodhya when it became open for the general public. 25th morning, we were in the queue in the grand Ram Temple at 6.30 AM and by then already thousands were ahead of us in the queue. We were thinking that we would be out by around 11 o clock. 7 AM sharp, the queue started moving.
As I finally stood before the magnificent Ram Temple, the moment felt surreal. The chants of “Jai Shri Ram” reverberated through the air, and I closed my eyes to pray. It was not just my prayer—it was something else. Tears started flowing unabatedly from all of us at seeing the devotion of different people. Some had just come by walk from their natives for several weeks while some had come by doing a shashtanga Namaskaram the entire journey. Some were physically disabled, but their faith more than made up. All of this left us dumbstruck.
The sheer grandeur of the temple structure also added to the awe. The queue moved at a pace with thoughts and reflections flying haywire, that the first time we saw Ram Lalla we didn’t realise what we just experienced. We were out by 7.30 AM as our electric auto boy Sachin was right outside the complex to receive us and take us around the iconic temples in Ayodhya which have stood to tell the epic for several Millennia. In the night, we witnessed Sarayu Ji’s arti. The city of Ayodhya was an experience in itself. The amount of infrastructure work that had gone in, maintaining law and order, discipline, and managing such mammoth crowds was all done well, thanks to the double engine sarkar of the visionary Prime Minister Modi Ji in the centre and the superefficient Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath Ji leading the way in UP.
Next day again, morning we had two dharshans of Ram Lalla in quick succession through the queue and we moved to Lucknow by road with great contentment and joy. They say that the road to Delhi goes via Lucknow but we didn’t realize why they say that till we experienced the super express highway laid by the highway man of India Shri Nitin Gadkari Ji. In less than 2 hours we reached Lucknow and Sundar Ji’s friends Mr and Mrs Hariharan were welcoming us with utmost hospitality. We met my old buddies, the Mukherjee brothers – Ashish and Sidhharth for dinner and enjoyed some music with the brothers reminiscing about our last few days at Varanasi and Ayodhya. Next day we took our flights back to Coimbatore.
When I returned home, my grandfather had fully recovered and stable. I sat by his bedside and recounted every detail, showing him pictures and videos. He heard me out in full detail and the light in his eyes said it all. For him, I had fulfilled a dream. For me, I had walked a path that taught me the true meaning of devotion—not just to God, but to family and the values we hold dear.
This journey was more than a visit to Ayodhya; it was a reminder that faith can guide us through the most challenging times. Against all odds, I found my way to the temple and back, carrying with me not just the blessings of Lord Ram but also the enduring spirit of my grandfather, who will always be my greatest teacher.
Through the journey to Ayodhya, Ramayana was a Lived Experience.
|| Dharmo Rakshati Rakshitah ||
Grandson, Husband and Father of Two, S Jaganathan - is the Founder of The Verandah Club. Convenor INTACH Coimbatore Chapter. He is an avid traveller, interested in trendspotting and a firm believer in the philosophy - Dharmo Rakshati Rakshitah.
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