The Maha Shivaratri in Kashmir is celebrated as Herath Festival. The grand celebration of Shivratri by the Kashmiri Pandit community is one of the most awe-inspiring and deeply spiritual festivals in Kashmir. Rooted in centuries-old traditions, it is not just a religious observance but a cultural phenomenon that transforms Kashmiri households into sacred spaces of devotion and festivity.

Herath, derived from Har-Ratri (Night of Shiva), is observed with unparalleled reverence in Kashmir, reflecting the community’s unwavering faith. Unlike the rest of India, where Maha Shivratri is a one-day affair; Kashmiri Pandits celebrate it as a 15-day festival, culminating in the Vatak Pooja, a ritual unique to their tradition. The festival is a recreation of Lord Shiva’s cosmic dance, embodying the union of Shiva and Shakti in the form of Jwala Bhagwati and Maha Dev. On this divine night, the entire valley echoes with the rhythmic chants of "Har Har Mahadev" as devotees engage in night-long vigils, storytelling, and elaborate poojas. The sacred watuk (earthenware pots) are ceremoniously worshipped, representing different deities, including Shiva and Parvati. Water, walnuts, and rice play a symbolic role, signifying purity, prosperity, and devotion.

The failed assault on faith and tradition

Jabbar Khan, the Afghan governor of Kashmir in the early 19th century, is infamously remembered for his act of changing the date of the Herath (Shivratri) celebration in an attempt to mock the religious sentiments of the Kashmiri Pandit community. Jabbar Khan, known for his oppressive rule, ordered that Herath be celebrated in the summer instead of winter, disregarding its deep-rooted spiritual significance. Since Herath is associated with Lord Shiva’s cosmic dance and the divine union of Shiva and Parvati, it is traditionally observed in the freezing cold of Kashmir’s winter. His decision was a deliberate act of humiliation, intending to break the morale of the Pandits by disrupting their sacred traditions.

However, as fate would have it, an unexpected snowstorm struck Kashmir on the altered date, despite it being summer. The incident was perceived as divine intervention, a testament to Lord Shiva’s supremacy. The unexpected snowfall became legendary, reinforcing the belief that Herath is Shiva’s chosen day, beyond human manipulation. Jabbar Khan’s decree failed to erase the devotion of Kashmiri Pandits, and instead, it strengthened their faith. Even today, elders recall this episode with the famous saying:

"Wuchhtam Herath, Jabbar Jandah, Yimav panun dag dag chonuy!"

(I saw Herath under Jabbar, but he had to suffer the consequences of his deeds!)

This episode stands as a remarkable example of faith enduring against tyranny, making Herath not just a festival but a symbol of resilience and divine justice in Kashmiri Pandit history.

The Significance of ‘Shankharpal’

During Herath (Shivratri) in Kashmir, Kashmiri Pandits traditionally make a symbolic snow structure called "Shankharpal", which some might find surprising or unique. This snow formation represents Sheshnag, the divine serpent associated with Lord Shiva. The Kashmiri winter, with its heavy snowfall, plays a significant role in Herath celebrations. Using fresh snow, devotees sculpt a coiled serpent or a lingam near their homes or temples. This practice signifies devotion to Sheshnag, a guardian deity in Kashmiri Shaivism, believed to reside in Amarnath and other sacred lakes in the region. Worshipping this snow structure is considered auspicious, connecting devotees to Kashmir’s spiritual and natural heritage. While this tradition might seem astonishing to outsiders, for Kashmiri Pandits, it is a sacred ritual reinforcing their bond with both Shiva’s divine presence and Kashmir’s unique winter landscape.

The Enchanting ‘Shivratri Bhaakh’ and ‘Walnut Prasad’

One of the most astonishing aspects of Herath is the Shivratri Bhaakh—a divine invocation in poetic form, passed down through generations. It is believed that this chanting, performed in a trance-like state, invokes Lord Shiva’s blessings upon the household. The offering of soaked walnuts, instead of the traditional milk or bael leaves, is another distinct Kashmiri Pandit tradition. These walnuts, sanctified during pooja, are later distributed as prasad, believed to carry the mystical energy of Lord Shiva.

For Kashmiri Pandits, especially those in exile, Herath is more than a festival—it is a connection to their homeland. The memories of pristine Kashmiri winters, snow-clad temples, and the scent of dhup (incense) filling ancestral homes remain etched in their hearts. Despite displacement, they continue to celebrate this festival with grandeur, keeping their traditions alive across the world. Herath is not just a night of prayers; it is a saga of faith, cultural pride, and unshakable resilience—a festival where the spirit of Kashmir’s ancient Shaivite heritage comes alive in all its celestial glory

Wing Commander BS Sudarshan is a former Indian Air Force pilot with over 12,000 flying hours. He participated in Operation Pawan and Operation Cactus before he transitioned to civil aviation. A passionate writer, he has authored six books, including "Hasiru Hampe", appreciated by S L Bhyrappa, and the latest "Evergreen Hampi". He is a regular contributor to the Verandah Club.